Our Ensenada
Submitted by adambehar on Wed, 06/03/2009 - 02:10.
By: Carla White
Most days, I work. A great day for me is one spent aimlessly tooling around Ensenada, one of the safest and friendliest places I have ever lived. Of course, I am generally on a mission—a run to Costco, the ATM machine at Banamex—but there are occasionally times when my husband and I look at each other and say, ‘Let’s go on a date.’ (We still go on dates.) And, to us, there’s no place better for a date than Ensenada.
THE DRIVE SOUTH
10 a.m. From our home about 20 miles north of Ensenada, the date begins with a slow drive south on the toll road, along one of the most spectacular coastlines on the West Coast. As we curve around the cliff at El Mirador (the view spot at km. 84), there is always the breathtaking moment when, from our high vantage point, the bay stretches out like a wide-screen movie. Pressed tight against rocky coastline, water the color of lapis lazuli stretches to the horizon. Todos Santos Island seems so close we could touch it. In the distance, an hour’s drive away, we can see the craggy ocean rocks at La Bufadora, the famous blowhole. (We know, from up-close experience, that those rocks are teeming with noisy sea lions and playful, barking seals.)
And right below us are the tuna rings in the peaceful cove below the Mirador—actually large nets that drop down to the ocean floor and serve as holding pens for big-game fish that will soon be processed and, likely as not, sent to Japan to become sushi. “What an incredible view today,” we say, every time.
EL SAUZAL
10:25 a.m. Too soon, we come to a little lighthouse, then the toll booth. We regretfully pass the Highway 3 turn-off, the Ruta del Vino (wine route), that in only minutes would take us to Mexico’s premier wine region in the Valle de Guadalupe. Instead, we roll into El Sauzal, the small fishing community just north of Ensenada. Sometimes, you know you’re in El Sauzal by smell alone: after all, it is home to many of the fish processing plants. But, like many things in Baja, El Sauzal is full of surprises.
For instance, Casa Natalie—a luxurious bed & breakfast resort spa at Km103.3. Who knew that one of the region’s most exclusive hotels (rumored to have welcomed actress Sandra Bullock and other celebrities) would be tucked away behind a white wall, here in this unlikely location? And Ophelia’s restaurant right next door, considered one of the new age culinary choices in northern Baja, along with other greats like Barra Azul, Muelle Tres and Manzanilla (which has achieved international kudos for its outstanding oyster choices).
But, for us, the must-do is El Trailero, on the east side of the road, where we can belly up to the taco bar, munch on humongous radishes and order up any number of tacos and tortas for scant dolares. My favorite menu item is the huarache, which means sandal—a masa-dough platform, shaped like a sandal, for delicious beans, meat, onion, cilantro and more. We think of this as brunch for under $5, and we are off on the road again.
NORTH ENSENADA
Further south, we pass the Las Rosas Hotel (the best margaritas in town and a pretty nifty infinity swimming pool) and Hotel Coral with its splendid marina that harbors sophisticated yachts. For one powerful moment, we flirt with the idea of having a lobster omelette at Sanos restaurant (kilometer 108.5). Deciding that we cannot eat a second breakfast, we instead pull over right across the street and I zip into the LA Cetto wine bar (a small offshoot of the huge winery in the Valle de Guadalupe) where I snag a bottle of their inexpensive and delicious local olive oil and a $7 petit sirah, one of the best low-cost wine values going.
ENSENADA
11:30 a.m. It’s cruise ship day in town, and I love it. To me, cruise ship days are exciting. The normally quiet main drag of Lopez Mateos is hopping, and there is a buzz in the air. Lots of faux Gucci purses and hand-painted Talavera ceramics will be sold today! We park our car near El Rey Sol restaurant (French food, impeccable service) on Lopez Mateos. Our course begins with a stroll through the Fausto Polanco hacienda-style furniture store. This is kind of like walking through an interior design magazine… the furnishings and décor are mind-boggling. As I run my hand longingly over a brass-studded, hand-tooled leather barstool, my husband gently snags my elbow and guides me back onto the street.
RIVIERA DEL PACIFICO CULTURAL
1:00 p.m. A couple of minutes later, we come to the Riviera del Pacifico Cultural and Convention Center on Boulevard Costero (believe it or not, this was once beachfront property!). The building looks like an old casino… and it was, allegedly financed by Al Capone and managed by Jack Dempsey. Inside, there’s a little window high above the floor, where bosses could keep an eye on the gambling clientele… and probably keep an even sharper eye on regulars like Myrna Loy, Lana Turner and Dolores del Rio. Also on Boulevard Costero is CEARTE – a state-of-the-art museum and complex that provides Ensenada’s most important venue for exhibitions, theatrical and performance events and other activities.
CENTRO ARTESANAL
1:45 p.m. Continuing along Boulevard Costero to Av. Castillo, we find the Centro Artesanal and a gallery not to be missed: Galería de Pérez Meillón showcases one of the finest selections of local Paipai and Kumiai Indian arts and basketry, as well as Casas Grandes Pueblo pottery. As I peruse the wares, my darling esposo (spouse) casually slips out the door, noting that we can meet at the Big Flag (a gigantic Mexico flag that serves as a great landmark, since it can be seen from pretty much anywhere). The truth here is that he is running into Caliente, the modern version of the old casino, to place a wager on a pony. On other days, when I am not with him, he prefers the Caliente at San Nicolas Hotel—a bit more intimate.
SHOPPING
2:30 p.m. We meet at the Big Flag. Now, comes the best part: We cross back over to Lopez Mateos, melding in with the cruiseshippers (which has its advantages in that we, too, receive the discounts accorded to them), and all together we cruise the shopping district. There is a store for everything. Being a silverlover, I usually stop by Marios or Los Castillo and end up with a pair of dangly, hand-wrought earrings from Taxco (make sure that they are .925 silver). At the Dorian’s store, there is a vast selection of perfumes, lotions and other cosmetics. Leatherwares, at stores like Gold Duck, are a good buy in Ensenada, and for traditional arts and crafts, particularly those focusing on Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead), there are several outstanding stores to visit: Arte Viva Mexico, Curios Plaza, La Herradura and Bazar Casa Ramirez (which also has an amazing collection of ornate mirrors) among them. It’s not the easiest to find, but it ranks amongst the finest and most unusual stores in downtown Ensenada: Mexican Art, located in a little alley, in the Plaza Alegra, in the heart of the Lopez Mateos shopping district. You’ll gape at the enormous, fantastical kites that hang from the ceiling and walls—butterflies, insects, dragons and more. These are not just kites, but truly works of art.
4 p.m. We have slowly made our way down to the north end of Lopez Mateos. On another day, we might stop at Mango Mango for a mango margarita, and it’s always a trip to spend a little while people-watching in Hussongs, keeping a toe out for the shoe-shine man, who himself is a little piece of Ensenada history. Instead, we amble back to our car and head south of town.
MANEADERO AND ESTERO BEACH
5 p.m. When you turn west off the dusty Transpeninsular Highway in Maneadero, following the sign to the Estero Beach Hotel Resort and RV Park, you are heading directly to what is a nature area and estuary. The hotel is definitely out of the way, which makes it all the better to go to there for an hour, a day or a weekend. Established in the 1950s, this resort has remained a top choice for tourists. Along with more than 100 rooms, the hotel’s Las Terrazas restaurant and bar has a panoramic view of the estuary; it is especially spectacular at sunset, when the amber-violet colors of evening play upon the sandbars and beaches here. Now, over a glass of local merlot, we can see sleepy sea lions and seals shimmy off sandbanks and slide into the ocean. Seabirds skim the water, their lithe forms disappearing from view into the brilliant orange Western sky. (Across the estuary, lights begin to twinkle in the area called Punta Banda—home to the famous Baja Mama’s restaurant which is a ‘cannot-miss’ for breakfast and lunch!) This is a perfect spot to start winding down our date.
ENSENADA AT NIGHT
7:30 p.m. As Americans, we do everything an hour or two ahead of everyone else. I will speak for myself, but we also seem to be lightweights when it comes to evening activities, so the late night disco party at Papas & Beer probably isn’t for us. Driving home, we consider a whole list of things we could do:
1. Go listen to great live music at El Patio bar on Lopez Mateos—except it begins at 10 p.m.
2. Go watch the Marineros Pacific League baseball game at the stadium (games often start at 7:15 p.m.)
3. Go to an English-language movie and eat possibly the world’s best caramel corn at one of the two Cinépolis theaters—except we won’t get out until after 10 p.m.
Instead, we drive up the highway, exiting at km. 59, for a stop at Poco Cielo. This hotel/restaurant is actually one of our hang-outs, partially because of its location and also because it has an intimate feeling of tropical retreat—cozy tables, swishing palm fronds, and amazing views. I have a Mexican Coffee and my husband has the same, but without the Mexican part—no tequila or kahlua for him. 9:00 p.m.
The drive home is peaceful, as always. On our patio, we light a little fire in our chimenea, and play a CD of Miguel De Hoyos’ classical guitar music (on summer and fall nights, he and violinist Alex DePue can be heard at La Palapa de José at the La Mision exit off of the toll road). We can hear the sound of waves crashing on the shore below and think, ‘Wow… we really live here.’ This is our Ensenada…if it weren’t for that pesky need to work, everyday here could be a date!
Submitted by adambehar on Wed, 06/03/2009 - 02:10.
By: Carla White
Most days, I work. A great day for me is one spent aimlessly tooling around Ensenada, one of the safest and friendliest places I have ever lived. Of course, I am generally on a mission—a run to Costco, the ATM machine at Banamex—but there are occasionally times when my husband and I look at each other and say, ‘Let’s go on a date.’ (We still go on dates.) And, to us, there’s no place better for a date than Ensenada.
THE DRIVE SOUTH
10 a.m. From our home about 20 miles north of Ensenada, the date begins with a slow drive south on the toll road, along one of the most spectacular coastlines on the West Coast. As we curve around the cliff at El Mirador (the view spot at km. 84), there is always the breathtaking moment when, from our high vantage point, the bay stretches out like a wide-screen movie. Pressed tight against rocky coastline, water the color of lapis lazuli stretches to the horizon. Todos Santos Island seems so close we could touch it. In the distance, an hour’s drive away, we can see the craggy ocean rocks at La Bufadora, the famous blowhole. (We know, from up-close experience, that those rocks are teeming with noisy sea lions and playful, barking seals.)
And right below us are the tuna rings in the peaceful cove below the Mirador—actually large nets that drop down to the ocean floor and serve as holding pens for big-game fish that will soon be processed and, likely as not, sent to Japan to become sushi. “What an incredible view today,” we say, every time.
EL SAUZAL
10:25 a.m. Too soon, we come to a little lighthouse, then the toll booth. We regretfully pass the Highway 3 turn-off, the Ruta del Vino (wine route), that in only minutes would take us to Mexico’s premier wine region in the Valle de Guadalupe. Instead, we roll into El Sauzal, the small fishing community just north of Ensenada. Sometimes, you know you’re in El Sauzal by smell alone: after all, it is home to many of the fish processing plants. But, like many things in Baja, El Sauzal is full of surprises.
For instance, Casa Natalie—a luxurious bed & breakfast resort spa at Km103.3. Who knew that one of the region’s most exclusive hotels (rumored to have welcomed actress Sandra Bullock and other celebrities) would be tucked away behind a white wall, here in this unlikely location? And Ophelia’s restaurant right next door, considered one of the new age culinary choices in northern Baja, along with other greats like Barra Azul, Muelle Tres and Manzanilla (which has achieved international kudos for its outstanding oyster choices).
But, for us, the must-do is El Trailero, on the east side of the road, where we can belly up to the taco bar, munch on humongous radishes and order up any number of tacos and tortas for scant dolares. My favorite menu item is the huarache, which means sandal—a masa-dough platform, shaped like a sandal, for delicious beans, meat, onion, cilantro and more. We think of this as brunch for under $5, and we are off on the road again.
NORTH ENSENADA
Further south, we pass the Las Rosas Hotel (the best margaritas in town and a pretty nifty infinity swimming pool) and Hotel Coral with its splendid marina that harbors sophisticated yachts. For one powerful moment, we flirt with the idea of having a lobster omelette at Sanos restaurant (kilometer 108.5). Deciding that we cannot eat a second breakfast, we instead pull over right across the street and I zip into the LA Cetto wine bar (a small offshoot of the huge winery in the Valle de Guadalupe) where I snag a bottle of their inexpensive and delicious local olive oil and a $7 petit sirah, one of the best low-cost wine values going.
ENSENADA
11:30 a.m. It’s cruise ship day in town, and I love it. To me, cruise ship days are exciting. The normally quiet main drag of Lopez Mateos is hopping, and there is a buzz in the air. Lots of faux Gucci purses and hand-painted Talavera ceramics will be sold today! We park our car near El Rey Sol restaurant (French food, impeccable service) on Lopez Mateos. Our course begins with a stroll through the Fausto Polanco hacienda-style furniture store. This is kind of like walking through an interior design magazine… the furnishings and décor are mind-boggling. As I run my hand longingly over a brass-studded, hand-tooled leather barstool, my husband gently snags my elbow and guides me back onto the street.
RIVIERA DEL PACIFICO CULTURAL
1:00 p.m. A couple of minutes later, we come to the Riviera del Pacifico Cultural and Convention Center on Boulevard Costero (believe it or not, this was once beachfront property!). The building looks like an old casino… and it was, allegedly financed by Al Capone and managed by Jack Dempsey. Inside, there’s a little window high above the floor, where bosses could keep an eye on the gambling clientele… and probably keep an even sharper eye on regulars like Myrna Loy, Lana Turner and Dolores del Rio. Also on Boulevard Costero is CEARTE – a state-of-the-art museum and complex that provides Ensenada’s most important venue for exhibitions, theatrical and performance events and other activities.
CENTRO ARTESANAL
1:45 p.m. Continuing along Boulevard Costero to Av. Castillo, we find the Centro Artesanal and a gallery not to be missed: Galería de Pérez Meillón showcases one of the finest selections of local Paipai and Kumiai Indian arts and basketry, as well as Casas Grandes Pueblo pottery. As I peruse the wares, my darling esposo (spouse) casually slips out the door, noting that we can meet at the Big Flag (a gigantic Mexico flag that serves as a great landmark, since it can be seen from pretty much anywhere). The truth here is that he is running into Caliente, the modern version of the old casino, to place a wager on a pony. On other days, when I am not with him, he prefers the Caliente at San Nicolas Hotel—a bit more intimate.
SHOPPING
2:30 p.m. We meet at the Big Flag. Now, comes the best part: We cross back over to Lopez Mateos, melding in with the cruiseshippers (which has its advantages in that we, too, receive the discounts accorded to them), and all together we cruise the shopping district. There is a store for everything. Being a silverlover, I usually stop by Marios or Los Castillo and end up with a pair of dangly, hand-wrought earrings from Taxco (make sure that they are .925 silver). At the Dorian’s store, there is a vast selection of perfumes, lotions and other cosmetics. Leatherwares, at stores like Gold Duck, are a good buy in Ensenada, and for traditional arts and crafts, particularly those focusing on Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead), there are several outstanding stores to visit: Arte Viva Mexico, Curios Plaza, La Herradura and Bazar Casa Ramirez (which also has an amazing collection of ornate mirrors) among them. It’s not the easiest to find, but it ranks amongst the finest and most unusual stores in downtown Ensenada: Mexican Art, located in a little alley, in the Plaza Alegra, in the heart of the Lopez Mateos shopping district. You’ll gape at the enormous, fantastical kites that hang from the ceiling and walls—butterflies, insects, dragons and more. These are not just kites, but truly works of art.
4 p.m. We have slowly made our way down to the north end of Lopez Mateos. On another day, we might stop at Mango Mango for a mango margarita, and it’s always a trip to spend a little while people-watching in Hussongs, keeping a toe out for the shoe-shine man, who himself is a little piece of Ensenada history. Instead, we amble back to our car and head south of town.
MANEADERO AND ESTERO BEACH
5 p.m. When you turn west off the dusty Transpeninsular Highway in Maneadero, following the sign to the Estero Beach Hotel Resort and RV Park, you are heading directly to what is a nature area and estuary. The hotel is definitely out of the way, which makes it all the better to go to there for an hour, a day or a weekend. Established in the 1950s, this resort has remained a top choice for tourists. Along with more than 100 rooms, the hotel’s Las Terrazas restaurant and bar has a panoramic view of the estuary; it is especially spectacular at sunset, when the amber-violet colors of evening play upon the sandbars and beaches here. Now, over a glass of local merlot, we can see sleepy sea lions and seals shimmy off sandbanks and slide into the ocean. Seabirds skim the water, their lithe forms disappearing from view into the brilliant orange Western sky. (Across the estuary, lights begin to twinkle in the area called Punta Banda—home to the famous Baja Mama’s restaurant which is a ‘cannot-miss’ for breakfast and lunch!) This is a perfect spot to start winding down our date.
ENSENADA AT NIGHT
7:30 p.m. As Americans, we do everything an hour or two ahead of everyone else. I will speak for myself, but we also seem to be lightweights when it comes to evening activities, so the late night disco party at Papas & Beer probably isn’t for us. Driving home, we consider a whole list of things we could do:
1. Go listen to great live music at El Patio bar on Lopez Mateos—except it begins at 10 p.m.
2. Go watch the Marineros Pacific League baseball game at the stadium (games often start at 7:15 p.m.)
3. Go to an English-language movie and eat possibly the world’s best caramel corn at one of the two Cinépolis theaters—except we won’t get out until after 10 p.m.
Instead, we drive up the highway, exiting at km. 59, for a stop at Poco Cielo. This hotel/restaurant is actually one of our hang-outs, partially because of its location and also because it has an intimate feeling of tropical retreat—cozy tables, swishing palm fronds, and amazing views. I have a Mexican Coffee and my husband has the same, but without the Mexican part—no tequila or kahlua for him. 9:00 p.m.
The drive home is peaceful, as always. On our patio, we light a little fire in our chimenea, and play a CD of Miguel De Hoyos’ classical guitar music (on summer and fall nights, he and violinist Alex DePue can be heard at La Palapa de José at the La Mision exit off of the toll road). We can hear the sound of waves crashing on the shore below and think, ‘Wow… we really live here.’ This is our Ensenada…if it weren’t for that pesky need to work, everyday here could be a date!